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Is It Appropriate to Undo Two Shirt Buttons at Work?
When you’re going tieless, is it flattering or a faux-pas to undo that second button? There are at least two sides to the debate
MICHAEL HOEWELER
By JAKE GALLAGHER
Dec. 11, 2014 12:43 p.m. ET
34 COMMENTS
NO
As the casual-Friday dress code has trickled into the rest of the week, open collars are often the norm, but that doesn’t mean colleagues want to ogle your chest hair. Men who undo just one button, said Samuel Barrett, 25, a London-based corporate strategist, show that “although [they] aren’t wearing a tie, they’re still adhering to formal business practice.” The little space between buttons, conservative dressers argue, is actually a chasm that says a lot about how you present yourself. Open that second one and co-workers might wonder whether you’ve stumbled off the French Riviera and into your cubicle. “In a professional setting, you’re not going to want to unbutton as many,” said Eric Jennings, vice president of menswear at Saks Fifth Avenue. But off the clock, added Mr. Jennings, feel free to unfasten with abandon: “When you’re out, among friends, absolutely unbutton [one] more.”
YES
Without a necktie to draw the eye, the collar opening itself becomes the focal point. More aggressive unbuttoners argue that when you undo just one button this opening appears too small—creating a constricted look. “Your neckline looks better with two buttons open,” said Mark Cho, the co-founder of the Armoury, a Hong Kong-based haberdashery that recently opened up its first U.S. location, in New York. “When it’s just one button open, it kind of looks like you forgot your tie.” Designer Antonio Ciongoli, of Eidos, brother brand of Italian haute tailoring label Isaia, said he would never undo just the top button: “That seems incredibly nerdy to me.” Mr. Ciongoli admitted that during the summer he’ll unbutton down to the third button, but that’s a trick probably best left to continental aficionados.
Why Decide?
There are times when one button is too conservative and two skews too louche. That’s the reason John O’Donnell created the “Tweener Button” for his shirt line Johnnie-O. A Tweener shirt offers a hidden button halfway between the two in question. Mr. O’Donnell said that while some men chuckle at the idea, many have embraced the Tweener without hesitation. He added, “Why it took so long for someone to come up with it is beyond me.”